Basque ethnography at a glance

La Ribera Market. Author: Gabo Punzo. Source: Labayru Fundazioa Photo Archive.

The Romans called commerce mercatus, a word derived from the verb mercari (to buy). The oldest origin of this Latin word lies in the root merk-, used by the Etruscans to form words related to commerce. This root is also associated with Mercury, the god of commerce.

The Ribera Market is historically located on the same site as Bilbao’s traditional market: Plaza Zaharra. Initially, the square was large and open, and, gradually, it was improved. Today, it is a building that still preserves the essence and characteristics of daily fresh food shopping.

The sociological and economic evolution of Biscayan society, and especially Bilbao society, from the city’s founding in 1300 to the present day, has had a direct impact on the evolution of the Ribera Market. However, we will focus on the most significant transformative elements of recent decades.

First, it’s worth noting that the Wholesale Fish, Fruit and Vegetable Markets were inaugurated in 1971 at the Bilbao Food Unit (Mercabilbao). Since then, the Ribera Market has ceased to be the main wholesale supply point for the region, becoming instead a public market.

Furthermore, direct sales by family-run rural producers have gradually disappeared, and with them, the presence of farmers at the market has diminished, due to both their aging population and the lack of generational succession. As a result of this process, the stalls traditionally occupied by farming families have been replaced by others managed by self-employed workers. These latter acquire their products through wholesale markets or suppliers.

Market restaurant area. Source: Zuriñe Goitia.

It’s also worth highlighting that in 2011, the municipal public entity Bilbao Zerbitzuak (Bilbao Services) was created, assuming direct management of the Ribera Market, thus strengthening and streamlining the Bilbao City Council’s intervention within its area of responsibility. In addition to purely commercial activities, other complementary activities were gradually introduced, such as a jazz bar in 2014, several gastro pubs from 2015 onwards, and a cooking school in 2019, therefore, expanding the building’s uses.

Another memorable event was the COVID-19 pandemic, which forced vendors to implement door-to-door delivery. This experience led to the development of online sales, which continue to operate today.

Finally, Bilbao’s transformation into a tourist destination has made the Ribera Market one of its main attractions. So-called “next-generation” or “third-generation” tourists not only seek experiences but also want to immerse themselves in local daily life, connecting with autochthonous customs and culture through contact with residents.

As a result of all this, the Ribera Market is currently a constantly evolving space with a clear commitment to sustainability. It has gone from being a market dedicated solely to the sale of perishable food, to a facility that combines leisure, hospitality, gastronomy and education, and has consolidated itself not only as a shopping centre, but also as a socio-cultural centre, where economic and human exchanges, as in the past, continue to be a fundamental focus.

Zuriñe Goitia — Anthropologist